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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: Battery, Storage ?
I had six new batteries installed two years ago and utilized plastic connectors so they could be unhooked easily to bring home to store/charge. It was still a horrible chore and I don't recommend it.
I've since found covered storage with power so I hope to never have to do that again. There has got to be a easier option for you.
Surely there would be a few unseasonably warm/clear days over that two months to actually drive/charge the batteries. Worst case drive it home and charge from shore power at home and return to storage.
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Two Jayhawks
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12/04/08 10:03am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Propane on while traveling & the law
That would sure make winter travel a problem as we would freeze without the furnace on while we drive.
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Two Jayhawks
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12/04/08 09:44am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Emergency Assistance (Tires)
I would want to know all the details but yes $288 is not bad at all if it does cover the cost of the ruined tire. If it also covers the damages done to the coach from a blow out that would be even better.
If a blow out happens on the steer axle it may ruin the aluminum rim also $$$.
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Two Jayhawks
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12/04/08 08:35am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Do we really need slide topper canvas?
I've never had them and only had to clear mine once- had about 8" of snow on top.
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Two Jayhawks
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12/02/08 01:04pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Chassis Batteries
You should be able to tell if your chassis batteries are going down.
I could not. I do have a rather crude needle gage on the dash. I would turn on the headlights to clear the surface charge and the gage wasn't sensative enough to give me an accurate reading. Then of course when you turn the key to start it instantly shows 14 volt.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/30/08 07:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Chassis Batteries
Bill
Most coach's are not charging chassis batt's when plugged to shore power. This always worried me with mine. Mine may sit for weeks and with the winter use I always worried about dead chassis batteries. I did this; I bought two gizmo's- one sticks in a 12 volt outlet and reads voltage (Walmart $15) and the other a voltage meter- both digital. I watched my chassis batt readings go down over several weeks of testing. My assumption was correct- my chassis batt's weren't being charged on shore power. I installed a Trick-l-start deal and now my chassis batt's read fully charged no matter how long between driving.
I got the tip from this forum and the install really was about 20 minutes.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/29/08 05:12pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Idling a Diesel
"Samert" got it right. The big problem is cylinder wash down, that is when because of low combustion temp's all the fuel is not burned. The diesel that does not burn will run down the sides of the cylinders washing off any oil, which then causes scoring of the walls, next thing you are burning oil. Also where does that fuel go? It goes into the crankcase, and cause all kinds of problems in things like the crank bearings, cam bearings and anywhere else it can cause very expensive repairs. If you have an engine problem under warranty, they will test the oil to see how much diesel is in it! Now the good news, at least on my cummins, when I start up cold and have to wait for air pressure to build the engine will automatically jump to about 1200 RPM after a minuet or so to prevent these problems. As soon as I have enough air pressure I then start moving.
I've read volumes on excessive idling and I completely support education on the subject. I am against it and changed our company policy. We have three trucks equipped with Cummins engines. One N14 and two with 8.3L ISC's. They range from 500K to 700K miles, rode hard and poorly maintained. They get started early and don't shut off till late in the day- typically 10 hours later. Long idles in docks etc. We haven't found any evidence to date that would support any engine damage. Excessive wear, wasted fuel, and excessive polution
certainly. That is enough evidence for me to want to reduce idoling.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/29/08 04:42pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: going to K.C. next weekend, need cold weather advice
We are heading to k.c. next weekend and we have a 08 Damon Daybreak. It is supposed to be below freezing(mid-20s) and was wondering if there are any procautions I should take. Thanks George
Welcome to the forum and to KC. Coming in for the game at Arrowhead?
Are you going to be plugged in at a CG or dry camping? I like to use a hanging work light in basement in addition to mine being heated just for insurance. I also use small heaters- one in the coach and one below if temps get really cold. In my wet bay I leave my 12 volt light on for warmth in there. These things are based on being plugged in. Also leave with full LP tank.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/29/08 04:03pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Class A - Motorhome Resort in Sevierville, Tennessee
No pets = no interest on my part.
Same here!
I agree.
Me too. Our newly adopted 7 year old beagle says she wouldn't want to stay there anyway.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/29/08 09:52am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Propane vs. All electric
Larry
I can't make any great case for propane and it's systems as I've had fridge problems too. My next coach might be all electric. A couple observations- most RV'ers don't start out with an all electric coach as they tend to be higher end units. Also people I know with all electric coach's do lots of dry camping so there is no problem there.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/29/08 09:18am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Idling a Diesel
I've just got my first DP - 98 Endeavor - and trying to understand the diesel engine. I have the Cummins 5.9ISB. The manual states "Do not idle engine for long periods. Long periods of more than 10 minutes can damage the engine...." My question is: what about when you're stuck in traffic ? And how come many trucks keep their engines running for hours ?
Don't sweat the stuck in traffic idols as they can't be avoided and don't take your cues from truck drivers. Many drivers don't own their equipment and aren't paying for the fuel. They will ultimately get the message as idoling is restricted/limited in many places.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/29/08 08:57am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Miles drivin in a day
We do 700 quite regularly. Until we are retired we have time constraints to work with so we tend to maximize what we have to work with.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/26/08 08:54am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is 2 lbs difference OK on Dual Tires
I'm a stickler for equal pressure on duals so I would add 2 lbs to that tire. BTW your tire pressure on the duals (96 psi) seems light for your rig- what weight rating does that give you with your particular tires?
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Two Jayhawks
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11/25/08 12:50pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Do I need brakes
I have a 2002 39' Winnebago Journey on a Frieght Liner chassis with a 330hp Cat and a 6 speed Allison. Do I need brakes on my tow dolly if I am pulling a 2004 Mercury mini van +/- 3,200 lbs GVW? Thanks
Keith :-)
Welcome Keith
This topic usually brings up spirited debates. Just my opinion- yes you should have aux brakes as well as break away protection. Also are you sure on the weight of that Merc minivan? 3200 lbs seems light by about 1000 lbs.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/25/08 09:55am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: Your experience with full width mud flap
I question a full width skirt as well. I can't understand why my engine compartment is always so dirty/dusty. I have suspected the full flap is partially responsible for forcing air up into the engine compartment. Frankly I thought about removing it and installing a toad shield to protect the car.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/24/08 12:55pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Dinghy weight
I did weigh the 07 Vue back when we bought it. It's a V6, front wheel drive and I believe it was approximately 3700 lbs. I remember spec sheet had at at 3500.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/20/08 09:32am |
Dinghy Towing
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RE: #101 needed for use of engine block heater, please??
hi,
I have a dp, and am currently in TN while they are experiencing record cold temps!! Lucky me. I plan to leave Saturday morning, with nighttime temps predicted to be around 20F, so I think temps will be upper 20's-low 30's when I am ready to start up engine for departure. Sooooooooo
#1. Do you recommend use of engine block heater? If so
#2. When should I plug it in? (I've never done this, but I have seen an outlet and unconnected nearby plug with the engine block heater toggle nearby) Should it run all night?
#3. When do I unpug it? Before starting?
Thanks for the anticipated advice, and even if I don't need it This weekend, I'll "bank" the info and use it when and if needed. Kathy
#1 Yes. Pre warming is easier on batteries, starter, and engine
#2 Plug in night before. My heater is small (500watts) and engine/oil res is large so a couple hours probably isn't much for mine.
#3 I assume you don't have a switch inside the coach (on/off)? I don't either as mine is aftermarket. So yes unplug heater before starting.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/20/08 08:42am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: How many watts does a typical Block Heater use?
One of the great mysteries of life.. block heater wattage. 'They' just don't want us to know.
Fairly easy to determine, turn everything off and check amperage with block heater on, multiply by 110-should be close to 1000 watts.
I happen to know the wattage of mine only because I installed it (500 watts). I must have the only C12 in the world that didn't come with one.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/20/08 08:32am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Is this logical?
Go out and look at some coach's. If you fall for a 40' unit it will be a moot point as they will all be diesels. If smaller suites you better gas may be a better choice for you. In the end it should be your call. Everyone here who has a diesel will be pimping diesel and gas owners likewise. But do keep economics out of which to buy as either will be a money hole.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/12/08 12:49pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Need Advise For Flat Towing!!!
Chuck surely you've read volumes on this forum over the years on which tow bar to buy and which braking system etc. I have also and frankly many are happy with many different set up's. I'll plug the ReadyBrake as I think it's the best for me. Basically $1500 buys the complete system including tow bar, aux brake, break away, including install. What I like most of all is the ease of use, no componant on the floor of the car, works with whatever you want to tow. The mod to the tow car is minor and included in the install. It's almost idiot proof. You can also utilize the aux brake and break away with your own tow bar and now your only talking about maybe $400 ish.
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Two Jayhawks
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11/12/08 10:04am |
Dinghy Towing
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